Garment



Dec. 15, 1942} J, C Y E ETAL 1 2,305,406

GARMENT Filed Aug, 27, 1941 2 Sheets-Sheetl Patented Dec. 15, 1942 Joseph Clyne, Bronx, and Jack DanielsQNew York, N. I Clyne Y.; said Daniels assignor to said Application August 2 7, 1941, SerialNo. 408,442 3 Claims. (one-115) This invention relates tonew anduseiul improvements in garments and has more particular reference to an improved-construction of the armhole portions thereof. More specifically, the invention contemplates the provision of inverted pleats in the armpit portions of the garment to permit expansion of these portions when the arms are raised and so to eliminate or materially reduce stresses at these points, thereby preventing the garment from pulll0 ing out of a lower garment such as a skirt,'trousers, etc., when the wearers arms are raised.

More particularly the invention relates to garments which have a waist portion provided with armholes and sleeves set into these armholes such as shirts, blouses, etc. The invention contemplates the provision of small gussets of material at the armpits. of the garment interposed between the sleeves and the waist portion, forming pleats which normally are extended inwards and which are capable of expanding when the sleeves are raised.

Still further the invention proposes a novel means for resiliently urging said pleats inwards of the garment.

' Another object of the invention is the construction of an article as mentioned which is simple and durable and which may be manufactured and sold at a reasonable cost.

For further comprehension of the invention, and of the objects and advantages thereof, reference, will be had to the following description and accompanying drawings, and to the appended claims in' which the various novel features of the invention are more particularly set forth.

In the accompanying drawings forming a material part of this disclosure:

Fig. 1 is an illustration of a golfer provided with a garment constructed in accordance with this invention.

Fig. 2 is an illustration of a person with her arms raisedand wearing a garment constructed in accordance with this invention.

Fig. 3 is a front elevational view of the garment provided with inverted pleats in the armpits in 45 accordance with this invention.

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary bottom view looking in the direction of the line 4-4 of Fig. 3.

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary vertical sectional view taken on the line 5-5 of Fig. 4. 5 Fig. 6 is a fragmentary elevational view of a garment constructed in accordance with a modifled form of this invention.

Fig. '7 is a vertical sectional view taken on the line 1-1 of F18. 6. 5

- Fig. 8 is an elevational view of one of the back sections of the waist portion of a garment constructed according to this invention.

Fig; 9 is an elevational view of the front section of the garment. l v c f Fig. 10 is an elevational view o'f the sleeve section of the garment.

Fig. 11 is an elevational view of the gusset which is to be set into the armpit portion of the sleeve of the garment in accordance, with this invention. g

Fig. 12 is an elevational view of a back. section of agarment constructed in accordance wit another form of this invention. i

Fig. 13' is an elevational view of th front section of the garment.

Fig. 14 is an elevational view of the sleevesection of the garment, in which the gusset is cut as an integral part of the sleeve..

The pattern of this garment may be out three different ways. Firstby using a regulation shirt pattern and setting in two gussets. These gussets will be stitched together and also stitched, oneto the sleeve, and: the other to the waist portion. Second-by using one larger gusset, pressing a fold in thegusset, and stitching the outer edges of the gusset to the'sleeve and waist portion. Third-by cutting a special pattern where the material for the gusset is'cut as an integral part of the sleeves.

The garment, in accordance with this invention, as illustrated in-Figs. 3 to 5, includes a waist Dortion l5 providedwith an armhole l8 into which a sleeve I1 is set. Small gussets of material 18 are located at the armpit of each sleeve and are interposed between the sleeve and the waist portion forming a'pleat which is normally extended inwardsof the garment as clearly illustrated, particularly in Fig. 5. This pleat is capable of expanding when the sleeve is raised. The gussets of material It have their adjacent edges stitched together with a line of stitches [-9. The outer edge portions of the gussets I8' are secured by lines of stitches 20 to the adjacent material of the waist portion and sleeve as already specified.

The garment is particularly intended for persons who have need for raising their; arms. For example, Fig. 1 illustrates a golfer with a gar- 0 meat constructed in accordance with this invention. Durihg the golf swing the arms are thrown upwards and normally there is a strain on the seam between the sleeve and the waist portion of the garment. However with the new construction 5 the pleat formed by the gussets of material I! merely expands so that there is no strain on the garment at this point whatsoever. I

Fig. 2 illustrates a person reaching upwards, with one sleeve of the garment being provided with a gusset in accordance with this invention, while the other sleeve is of the old conventional type which causes the blouse or shirt to be pulled out from the skirt or trousers when the arm is raised. Although only two forms of the use of the garment are shown, it should be borne in mind that there are any number of others.

In Figs. 6 and '7 a modified form of the invention has been disclosed which distinguishes from the prior form in the fact that each sleeve is provided with means for resiliently urging the pleat formed by the gussets l8 inwards of the garment. This means comprises an elastic band 2| which is attached along the top edge of the pleat formed by the gussets of material l8 by a line of stitches 22. The elastic band 2! is also attached to a top portion of the sleeve by several stitches 23. When the garment is worn, the arm is placed through the band 2|. The elasticity of the band 2| will act to retract the, pleat formed by the gussets I8. However, when the arms are raised the pleat'may open and then .the elastic band 2| merely expands. Thereafter it acts to retract the pleat.

In Figs. 8 to 11, inclusive, several pattern pieces have'been illustrated for constructing a garment in accordance with another form of this invention. Fig. 8 shows a back section 24 of the waist portion of a garment. This back section has a top portion 24 to form one of the shoulders thereof. It is also provided with the usual sleeve opening edge 24. This back section is cooperative with the usual front section 25 which has the usual top portion 25 to cooperate with the portion 245 to form-the shoulder of the garment. The section 25 is also provided with the sleeve opening edge 25 A sleeve section 26 is also provided for forming the sleeve. This section 28 has the usual end portions 25 which are stitched together. The edge portion 26 is adapted to be set into the sleeve opening of the garment. A gusset 21 is also provided which has rounded sides 21'} and- 21 capable of extending along the armpit portions of the sleeve section and the waist portion sections of the garment.

In Figs. 12 to 14 still another form of the invention has been disclosed in which a garment back section 24' is shown. This back section 24' has the shoulder portion 24 and the sleeve openings 24 However, the sleeve openings is provided with a small gusset projecting portion 21. Numeral 25 indicates a front section for the garment which has the shoulder portion 25- and the sleeve cutout portion 25". This front section 25' is also provided with a gusset portion 21. The sleeve section 26' has the usual ends 25 and the usual curved side 26. It is additionally provided with gusset portions 21'. The various gusset sections 21, 21, and 21' are stitched to each other when the garment is made, to form an inverted pleat substantially as previously described.

It is to be understood that this arrangement may be used in various garments of all sizes, such as blouses, shirts, ladies and children's dresses, etc.

While we have illustrated and described the preferred embodiments of our invention, it is to be understood that we do not limit ourselves to the precise constructions herein disclosed and the right is reserved to all changes and modifications coming within the scope of the invention as delined in the appended claims.

Having thus described our invention, what we claim as new, and desire to secure by United States Letters Patent is:

1. In a garment having a waist portion and a sleeve with a small gusset of cloth material at the armpit of the garment between said waist portion and sleeve forming a pleat which normally extends inwards, anannular elastic band with said sleeve and attached at one point to said sleeve and at another point to the inner extremity of said pleat, whereby when said garment is worn one's arm will extend through said annular elastic band torsh'ape and support the band to retain said pleat in its inwardly extended position.

2. In a garment having a waist portion and a sleeve with a. small gusset of cloth material at the armpit of the garment between said waist portion and sleeve forming a pleat which normally extends inwards, an annular elastic band with said sleeve and attached at its upper side to the upper portion of said sleeve adjacent the shoulder and at its lower side to the inner extremity .of said pleat, whereby'when said v arment is worn ones arm will extend through' said annular elastic band to shape and support the band to retain said pleat in its inwardly extended position.

3. A garment comprising a front section, a back section-secured to the front-section at a side of the garment, said front and back sections being shaped so that together they form an arm opening at a side of the garment adjacent" their upper ends,;and a sleeve section sewn within said arm opening, adjoining portions of the front and back sectionshaving extensions extending into the arm opening which are sewn together to form a gusset part, the adjoining edges of the sleeve section having extensions extending into the arm opening which are sewn together to form a second gusset part, the two gusset parts being sewn together at their distal edgesand forming an inwardly-directed gusset at the arm-pit between the sleeve and the body portion of the garment.

JOSEPH CLYNE. JACK DANIELS. 

